SRI 150 Burning oil

yorkie200

Hi All

My First post on here so please be gentle!

I have a 2001 Vectra SRI 150, standard with no mods. I have noticed that it is using a lot of oil (upto half a litre every 100 miles) it also smokes if i boot it (blue oil smoke) and my wife followed me in her car and said it smelt......

It's not using a lot of fuel, and runs well, except on the odd occasion when cold. the exhaust does pop after revving, don't know if this is normal.

NO EM light on..

I think i may have been sold a lemon..........

Any help would be appreciated

Edit to say: I'm blanking the EGR valve off tomorrow, just ordered plate, I have been told that this may be the problem, or valve oil seals. only time will tell........ I do some DIY myself but taking the engine to bits is a bit too far for me, how much of a strip would it be to do the valve seals?

bolder

blue smoke, burning oil, has the car had engine rebuild or anything? valves, rings etc, headgaskit, hows ur water?

yorkie200

As far as i know it hasn't been touched, it's new to me 🙁 and it drove ok on test drive.

It had a new chain at 70,000 by main dealer because the stamp is in the book.

it's now on 92,000.

Water is clear, no gunge on oil filler cap, not loosing water. just oil.

BURT150

Compression test will give you an idea if its piston rings :thumbup:

Give all the inlet parts a good clean out and check everyware for oil leaks.

yorkie200

Thanks I will do tomorrow or thursday when i do the egr block....

compression testing... £17.99 for kit but i have to disconnect fuel injectors and imobiliser? (don't want to sound thick but iv'e never done it before.)

ther seems to be some oil on the back of the engine, but not a lot and it doesn't drip or puddle.

underside is clear, one other quick question, how long should it take for the vectra to warm up (temp gauge) i drove it at 60mph for about 5 mins before needle moved, heater was hot before it did. when its hot it sits between 80-90 both through town and dual

cheers

BURT150

Temperature sounds fine mine usualy takes 3miles or about 5-10 mins to warm up and sticks between 80 and 90.

Best thing to get is a haynes book that'l tell you exactly what to do with compression testing and also remember to take all spark plugs out rather than one at a time.

I think im rite in saying you just need to remove the fuel pump relay dunno..

BURT150

Yep the ignition system is disabled when you remove the coil pack and the fuel pump relay needs to be removed from the box behind the battery and its the relay thats nearest the front of the car :thumbup:

Your looking for 12-15 bar and no more than 1bar difference between cylinders.

If your low on a certain cylinder the instructions with the compression tester will explain how to test it.

yorkie200

Thank you, will go and buy a tester tonight. may get a set of plugs, if they are gonna be out may as well....

Will the Engine Managment Light come on? if so how do i get it back off?

Nik

BURT150

Yea it will throw a couple of faults but i think once your all done and happy with the compression test. disconect the battery for 5 mins then re connect and take it steady for 30 miles to let the ecu learn again.

New plugs will be good 😃

yorkie200

Thank you

I'll have a look thursday evening.

I'm going to check the throttle body and clean it up, how do i check the inlet manifold, is it a full removal? if it is I may send it to the garage as i don't want anything to go wrong, i read on another thread that there is sometimes gunge and oil in there.

I'm off to drink myself into a hole, the car is lovely to drive, i love it. just need to keep putting oil in it.

it is strange that i'm getting good fuel economy 350-400 miles to a tank

yorkie200

One more thing of note... The breather pipe from the block to the intake pipe has some oil on the outside of it, and over the intake pipe. Will it be worth taking the breather pipe off and cleaning it with some petrol to get it clear?

It needs a new air filter anyway as it's disgusting, how anyone can let their car get like that is beyond me!

I just need to get it running properly and then i can start "playing" but need to sort burning oil out first.

yorkie200

Pre empting the compression test and EGR valve and cleaning up.

I have been quoted £450 for valve seals, new head gasket as they have to take the head off and new tensioners for chain from garage. is that a good price? is it worth doing the piston rings whilst they have the head off at the same time?

any idea of price for a set of piston rings, the local VX dealer said they needed details off the pistons themselves.

yorkie200

Ok all tested and checked here's what I found....

looking at the engine

12.2bar 12.2 bar 12.2bar 11.8bar
plug ok caked in oil plug ok plug ok
oil on thread oil on thread oil on thread oil on thread

Air intake from filer to throttle body, had oil residue inside. throttle body had oil on it, and oil inside when opened.

EGR Valve still to be done, could this be the fault?

car needs a service, new oil, filters, plugs. cleaned plugs and throttle body up and its not popping anymore and its a bit more responsive.

Any help would be appreciated

tony923152d

hello first time on here my sri15o has the same problem thought it was the pistern rings but not smoking alot but burming alot of oil i do 300 miles a day im have to fill up every other day could tell me what the outcome was thank you

MikeS

i would check for leaks personally

bell housing
water pump
chain tensioner