vocky said:
Does anyone know how far out the lambda sensor should be spaced to eliminate this problem and we can try that.
the guys in the states space the sensor so it's clear of the exhaust, might be worth angling it so it points away from the engine/ flow.
might also be worth reducing the opening, so perhaps drill a 8mm hole it the exhaust rather than a 15mm [or whatever]
it will be trial and error :roll:
I had a nice chat with Jon at Courtney regarding this problem yesterday and he confirmed my suspicions, that the ECU has very very tight parameters with what the lambda sensors can see and be happy. So basicaly any change of cat to a more freer flowing item will bring the light on as its measuring outside the parameters its looking for. The only proper answer to this is to fit a standard spec cat in the system, but this would defeat the object of a sports cat. We have checked the car and it still passes an MOT emissions test so i think we may have to leave it as it. Jon did say that he can supply a "Eliminator" kit that tricks the signal to the ECU from the lambda sensor. This will probably the best bet i feel to provide a long term cure for this problem 🙂
scubadaddy said:
Very pleased :thumbup:
Can you stop posting videos of my car now please showo..
Looking forward to getting it back and putting the 2.4 manifold on !
Sorry :shifty:
It does sound good now tho 😃
chris_uk said:
interesting results there garry, i thought that it would of produced more power than that, bearing in mind the VSE is not meant to give anymore power over standard, might aswell use the standard rear box for track rather than the piper one, if its just noise people are worried about.
but, i do see the smoother torque curve from 3k - 4k on the graph which is nice but im not sure if that will warrant the change and the cost..
atm, i have the 2.4 inlet manifold over scubba's so i would expect to see maybe a tiny bit more power than these results, but when i popped the 2.4 manifold on i feel the torque dropped but revved better and felt it was faster top end, but when putting your manifold and downpipe the torque came back and the top end stayed.
just out of interest garry, what did your 2.25 system give in terms of torque curves and peak powers etc.
also my next question to everyone really, im going to go to courtaneys for a remap when the balancer shafts are out and at the same time get a light flywheel fitted, but would i be better leaving the VSE on or getting the piper..
decisions decisions... any info/advise on the next move would be much appreciated.
The results where what we expected to be honest. The fact that on the day the VSE gave a touch more BHP i would just put down to the "rolling road lottery". I would say that on a stock engine the VSE is fine (all be it, fecking loud), as that's what it was designed for. But please remember that this 2.5" system is being designed for supercharged and heavily modified NA cars. For standard ish cars i would use our 2.25" products) I am fairly sure that given a 2.4 Inlet and remap to suit all the mods we would see the Piper system really starting to come into its own. The extra torque was quite a nice bonus as well, to try and cure that flat spot and the car did drive much smoother with our system on. We never tested the 2.25" systems so don't have any figures im afraid. That said the only way to get a fair test would be to fit that all to this car so we can have a proper comparison but sadly we don't have the time to do this. If i were you, i would look at what you want from your car. If you are not going to be doing any track days, dont mind a loud exhaust, and have no plans on modifying your car any further then the VSE would probably be fine for you. If however you do want to go on track day, would like the exhaust a bit quiter (you already said you were a little embarased at how loud it was) and do have plans to modify your engine further, then our new system is the one for you 🙂 I hope this answers all your questions.
alanoo said:
Bwarf, bullshit, these are only dyno imprecisions, these results and the curves are so similar... so well, same result with much less noise, that's perfect
My thoughts also 🙂
mandarinvx said:
Is it a good idea to use stainless nuts and bolts for assembly, or best to stick with mild steel :eh:
It does not matter to much with regards to strength, but if you want to be able to take it on and off in the future, stainless would be your best bet as it wont corrode like mild steel.
I think this covers everything.
Kind Regards
Garry Curley
Race Product Development Dept
