Johnny2016
Member
How lol
dewismotorsport's Astra coupe
- Thread starter dewismotorsport
- Start date
Johnny2016
Member
How lol
milo
Senior Member
Quick search on astra owners club website and it seems a very common issue here a link to one of the threads bud.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...L7ULTHqs9xtPY91qA&sig2=mRTgJ5v8P0xNu4WHtUvc4A
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...QDe6GKKD6Z8KksW5g&sig2=BtWO1k97vSF4aT4O7PMZTA
Might be easier to have a quick search on they website for the info u need
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...L7ULTHqs9xtPY91qA&sig2=mRTgJ5v8P0xNu4WHtUvc4A
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...QDe6GKKD6Z8KksW5g&sig2=BtWO1k97vSF4aT4O7PMZTA
Might be easier to have a quick search on they website for the info u need
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Had my relayed electrical cut offs turn up as I doubt the ecu etc will like being instantly cut off.
New bearings and seals turned up
Ground down a old allen key to use as tool to remove the bearing outers, fits under the bearing in the two oil gaps and knocked up with a hammer
Whipped the old bearings off to retrieve the shims underneath
Fitted shims and pressed new bearings on
Fitted crown wheel and torqued the bolts up and line marked them
Fitted diff, first gearbox must have got damaged on the gear selector or fork as once bolted up wouldn't spin the diff so after much swearing and head scratching I used the spare box and all went together with no dramas. So at some point I will re investigate that box and check all alignment and keep as a spare.
While it was in bits I decided to improve the breathing on the casing, had a -10 to -6 fitting so drilled the centre out to -10 and drilled and tapped the box. Amazing how small the original breather hole is on the F23. That fitting will have a pipe going up and into the breather tank.
All together and zinc painted to make it pretty. Will get it bolted back to the engine and that can go back into the car now.
New bearings and seals turned up
Ground down a old allen key to use as tool to remove the bearing outers, fits under the bearing in the two oil gaps and knocked up with a hammer
Whipped the old bearings off to retrieve the shims underneath
Fitted shims and pressed new bearings on
Fitted crown wheel and torqued the bolts up and line marked them
Fitted diff, first gearbox must have got damaged on the gear selector or fork as once bolted up wouldn't spin the diff so after much swearing and head scratching I used the spare box and all went together with no dramas. So at some point I will re investigate that box and check all alignment and keep as a spare.
While it was in bits I decided to improve the breathing on the casing, had a -10 to -6 fitting so drilled the centre out to -10 and drilled and tapped the box. Amazing how small the original breather hole is on the F23. That fitting will have a pipe going up and into the breather tank.
All together and zinc painted to make it pretty. Will get it bolted back to the engine and that can go back into the car now.
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
It's alright mate, this is a gripper LSD so has a series of plates inside which are preset to lock at a certain force under acceleration and braking. The diff helps to get traction down out of corners as a standard diff ends up spinning the inside (unloaded) wheel out of a bend, where as this will give more drive to the loaded wheel by shifting the drive power, it helps pull the car around the bend and also helps the car under braking.
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Well the couple of quite weeks at work didn't go to plan and in fact turned into the busiest I've had since being there so hardly got anytime for the car.
I did a light swap back to standard but decided tint the indicator and reverse lights as was never a fan
Swapped my pulley on the charger to a slightly smaller one, used to run 9psi but should now run 12-13psi so should help to lean the massively rich map out at WOT as it's currently in the 10's and I'd much prefer it in the high 11's to 12 dead. I plan to fit an adjustable fpr to help fine tune if needed.
Also finally got the engine back in the car and off the axle stands, will get it plumbed and wired up when I get some time.
The stiffened engine and gearbox mounts were obvious as it made it harder to line the bolts up but to rock the engine there is no movement so hopefully make a noticeable difference
I did a light swap back to standard but decided tint the indicator and reverse lights as was never a fan
Swapped my pulley on the charger to a slightly smaller one, used to run 9psi but should now run 12-13psi so should help to lean the massively rich map out at WOT as it's currently in the 10's and I'd much prefer it in the high 11's to 12 dead. I plan to fit an adjustable fpr to help fine tune if needed.
Also finally got the engine back in the car and off the axle stands, will get it plumbed and wired up when I get some time.
The stiffened engine and gearbox mounts were obvious as it made it harder to line the bolts up but to rock the engine there is no movement so hopefully make a noticeable difference
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Back off summer leave so got back to doing the car. Made a start on the rear end geo and brakes.
After initial measurements on beam and a lot of mental arthimatic I realise I could only get the beam so close with my camber and toe setting as they only do +&- 1.5 degree changes so after much swearing and what must of been hub wheel and hub off about 50 times a side I got it sorted by using some shimming metal I had, used 0.020" on passenger side and 0.005" on drivers to get me my final even goal.
After a good chat with Max Coates (clio cup race winning and ex btcc driver) who helps out as driver coach at the Armed forces race challenge (AFRC) he and some of the engineers recommended i go for a toe out setting instead of the toe in I previously had planned. So I aimed for 1mm toe out each side and pre lowering of -2 degrees camber. I managed to get the toe spot on and the camber just 0.1 degree off. Once final ride height is set that should drop to my ideal figure of -2.5 degrees.
Really not a fan of the plastic shims as once torqued up they deform so the metal shims are the way forward
Once that was finally done it was time to fit the vectra c vxr rear ventilated discs (291x20mm) and calipers with yellowstuff pads. Had to shim the calipers over to allow for the thickness of the shims also.
Just need to make new handbrake cable support brackets and buy new bango bolts (came with the wrong pitch thread) and that's the rear all done.
After initial measurements on beam and a lot of mental arthimatic I realise I could only get the beam so close with my camber and toe setting as they only do +&- 1.5 degree changes so after much swearing and what must of been hub wheel and hub off about 50 times a side I got it sorted by using some shimming metal I had, used 0.020" on passenger side and 0.005" on drivers to get me my final even goal.
After a good chat with Max Coates (clio cup race winning and ex btcc driver) who helps out as driver coach at the Armed forces race challenge (AFRC) he and some of the engineers recommended i go for a toe out setting instead of the toe in I previously had planned. So I aimed for 1mm toe out each side and pre lowering of -2 degrees camber. I managed to get the toe spot on and the camber just 0.1 degree off. Once final ride height is set that should drop to my ideal figure of -2.5 degrees.
Really not a fan of the plastic shims as once torqued up they deform so the metal shims are the way forward
Once that was finally done it was time to fit the vectra c vxr rear ventilated discs (291x20mm) and calipers with yellowstuff pads. Had to shim the calipers over to allow for the thickness of the shims also.
Just need to make new handbrake cable support brackets and buy new bango bolts (came with the wrong pitch thread) and that's the rear all done.
Project L850
Member
Nice work!
As its a beam the camber setting should remain nearly static when you lower the rear axle.
Toe-out on rear!!!! Hero settings!!..... you may be taking a bite out of the seat in high speed corners - looking forward to hearing about the results!
As its a beam the camber setting should remain nearly static when you lower the rear axle.
Toe-out on rear!!!! Hero settings!!..... you may be taking a bite out of the seat in high speed corners - looking forward to hearing about the results!
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Cheers, my previous experience with this car and my old corsa b track on a beam was that as it was lowered more it increased the camber. If it doesn't I'll be happy with -2 degrees but would be happier with -2.5
Yeah i like a lively rear on a bend, it helps the car to rotate so I can get the steering lock off faster. Its definitely not for everyone though
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Finished the brakes off today, just need a bleed. Modified the handbrake bracket to support it in its new higher position and keep it away from the wheel and spring.
Fitted the dry wheels to check for clearances to arch and all is fine just needs a final ride height setting (pre corner weighting)
Fitted the dry wheels to check for clearances to arch and all is fine just needs a final ride height setting (pre corner weighting)
agree with that when mine was lowered the camber increased quite a bit hence fitting the camber shims to bring it back
did you know about moving the stock bracket to the front 6mm hole ??Finished the brakes off today, just need a bleed. Modified the handbrake bracket to support it in its new higher position and keep it away from the wheel and spring.
looking good
makes me want wheel studs for the front lol
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
agree with that when mine was lowered the camber increased quite a bit hence fitting the camber shims to bring it back
did you know about moving the stock bracket to the front 6mm hole ??
looking good
No I didn't, I didn't even think to look at yours I just extended the brackets, ah well
Yeah studs are the way forward makes having wheel on and off so much easier and also keeps the disc in place better
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Been cracking on, brakes all bleed up and handbrake set. Driveshafts re fitted but then noticed an error I'd made with the brake ducts, on full lock they fouled the cv gaiter and shaft, so chopped them down and squished them and all was good. Also had to remove the metal wire and threads from end part of the hose as it wouldn't go over the duct.
All fitted
New lubes arrived so topped it back up
Old cheap air filters ready for the bin, had a spare ITG filter so going to use that, the size difference is comical, just waiting for a 4" to 3" reducer to turn up.
Semi slick wheels have gone on so treated the wets to some bags, have handy carry handles and we're only about £10 for 4 so rude not too
Made a start mocking up the intercooler pipe work, had some pipes left over from the corsa so used them as a guide. I've toyed with modding the intercooler to have both inlet and outlet on the same side to help shorted the pipe run but I will try it this way for now as both ways will be tight on space.
Pretty much the same style pipe from this side too
Just waiting for new silicones to arrive but I can now make a start on chopping up the inlet to convert it to air to air rather the charge cooler system.
All fitted
New lubes arrived so topped it back up
Old cheap air filters ready for the bin, had a spare ITG filter so going to use that, the size difference is comical, just waiting for a 4" to 3" reducer to turn up.
Semi slick wheels have gone on so treated the wets to some bags, have handy carry handles and we're only about £10 for 4 so rude not too
Made a start mocking up the intercooler pipe work, had some pipes left over from the corsa so used them as a guide. I've toyed with modding the intercooler to have both inlet and outlet on the same side to help shorted the pipe run but I will try it this way for now as both ways will be tight on space.
Pretty much the same style pipe from this side too
Just waiting for new silicones to arrive but I can now make a start on chopping up the inlet to convert it to air to air rather the charge cooler system.
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Fitted the front and rear tow wires, there's rumours that this may be manitory for next season so fitted the required two up front and two at the rear. The fronts are M14 bolts straight through the subframe and rears are M10 and using inserts to stop the chassis legs squishing.
Once the rear black section of the bumper is removed to help air escape from behind the bumper (I've removed the wheel well) the wire will poke through that section
Welded some brackets to the subframe and crash bar to hold the intercooler and modded the oil cooler brackets to fit also
Bumper on and all clears nicely. Will spray the cooler black to keep it stealth looking, but need to make some air guides for the sides so all the air going through the bumper goes into the coolers and not around the sides
Once the rear black section of the bumper is removed to help air escape from behind the bumper (I've removed the wheel well) the wire will poke through that section
Welded some brackets to the subframe and crash bar to hold the intercooler and modded the oil cooler brackets to fit also
Bumper on and all clears nicely. Will spray the cooler black to keep it stealth looking, but need to make some air guides for the sides so all the air going through the bumper goes into the coolers and not around the sides
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
A bit of progress at last! Made myself some seat mount brackets
Drivers seat rails set, took plenty of time on this as there is nothing worse than having a bad seating position in a track/race car. I've raised the front rails slightly higher as it allows the seat to tuck under my legs and support them.
Seat fitted with plenty of fine adjustment still available
Mounted the battery and fire extingusher, will plumb/wire them in at a later date.
I've fitted a passenger seat as I will still be doing track days and I like taking passengers out and also allows me to have tuition when needed.
Drivers seat rails set, took plenty of time on this as there is nothing worse than having a bad seating position in a track/race car. I've raised the front rails slightly higher as it allows the seat to tuck under my legs and support them.
Seat fitted with plenty of fine adjustment still available
Mounted the battery and fire extingusher, will plumb/wire them in at a later date.
I've fitted a passenger seat as I will still be doing track days and I like taking passengers out and also allows me to have tuition when needed.
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Finally had some time to do the car, so the past few evenings I've made a start on the cage. I'm starting to become short on time for next season, first race is the 18th of March at Donnington. However I go on Xmas leave back home from the 16th of December till the 3rd of Jan and then fly to Norway for 6 weeks a few days later, so once back in the UK I will only have a few weeks to finish it.
First up was the main hoop.
Then made feet bases both sides (120cm square as per msa blue book)
Then onto the A pillar bars, after a few designs this was the best shape I could get as your only allowed two bends in them (unless you run windscreen re enforcement bars. I can't as it would block my side mirrors totally)
Had to offset the bends due to the shape of the coupes roof line
Feet bases made both sides
A and B pillars will have gussets welded on, but nice and parallel
Had to slot the dash top to get it back in, I could now measure where I wanted the dash bar to fit
Dash all cut down and lightened
Dash bar fitted, it's all tight under there but I've made it so I can still have the side vents to clear the windows
Heater box/blower will sit around here
B pillar brace added
Aim is to have it finished inside by end of next week ready for paint
First up was the main hoop.
Then made feet bases both sides (120cm square as per msa blue book)
Then onto the A pillar bars, after a few designs this was the best shape I could get as your only allowed two bends in them (unless you run windscreen re enforcement bars. I can't as it would block my side mirrors totally)
Had to offset the bends due to the shape of the coupes roof line
Feet bases made both sides
A and B pillars will have gussets welded on, but nice and parallel
Had to slot the dash top to get it back in, I could now measure where I wanted the dash bar to fit
Dash all cut down and lightened
Dash bar fitted, it's all tight under there but I've made it so I can still have the side vents to clear the windows
Heater box/blower will sit around here
B pillar brace added
Aim is to have it finished inside by end of next week ready for paint
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Been cracking on after work as times ticking. Wanted to keep the column mount but it needed modding to fit, so chopped it down and re welded it
Test fitted, will make a bracket to bolt to the dash bar, but this mount also bolts to the brake and clutch pedal as standard
Removed the steering lock as there not allowed
Made myself some A and B pillar gussets
Quick sand blast
Front will fit like this once screen is removed
Cut the tacks on the tube to feet so I could move it about so I could get full welds on the hard to reach tube joins. All done and welded fully
Seat fitted, shows good driver protection as I wanted the door bars to cross through the centre of the doors to offer good side impact protection
Fitted the B pillar gussets
And dash chucked back in to check for clearance
Test fitted, will make a bracket to bolt to the dash bar, but this mount also bolts to the brake and clutch pedal as standard
Removed the steering lock as there not allowed
Made myself some A and B pillar gussets
Quick sand blast
Front will fit like this once screen is removed
Cut the tacks on the tube to feet so I could move it about so I could get full welds on the hard to reach tube joins. All done and welded fully
Seat fitted, shows good driver protection as I wanted the door bars to cross through the centre of the doors to offer good side impact protection
Fitted the B pillar gussets
And dash chucked back in to check for clearance
Dave Gilbert
Senior Member
Looking good there mate
Love the gussets
U going body colour?
Love the gussets
U going body colour?
dewismotorsport
Senior Member
Cheers mate, the inside is getting painted Ford stealth grey. It's getting the glass taken out Friday morning and into my friend and sponsors body shop on Wednesday for paint
